Ultimate A2 Pulley Injury Recovery Guide (PT's Full Protocol)

☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool 🩹 INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint ⚡ TRAINING/RECOVERY EQUIPMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store 🔗 LINKS! (UPDATED 3/25/2026) 👉 Recovery timelines and climbing guidelines for grades I-IVa: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1462Uwlni2H7YrHpkQLHDXpGAecOhJHqw?usp=sharing 👉 Our new adjustable pulley splints: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store/p/pulley-splint 👉 Free STL files for pulley splints: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store/p/pulley-splint-files 👉 Updated pulley splint & taping guidelines: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1rDeh2omhPSxEn-_iJ2ke8ytNC3FoPUVPUmt0RhVneEs/edit?usp=drive_link 👉 Our training / recovery products: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store/our-products 👉 Schedule a consult with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions 📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com 📝 SHOW NOTES Episode 167 https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/ultimate-a2-pulley-injury-recovery-guide IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES: 👨‍⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-sessions 🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching 🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta 👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta 😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES: ➡️ Gear: - $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5 - 10% off Frictitious hangboards with code “HoopersBeta10”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=HoopersBeta - 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affiliate?id=HOOPERSBETA ➡️Performance: - Anti-corporate small-batch coffee (10% off with code "GFHB10"): https://www.groundfallcoffee.com/?ref=HOOPERSBETA - 2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": https://macrofactorapp.com/ ➡️Gyms: - The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/ - Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental! WHO ARE WE? Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping our affiliate links! 🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS https://docs.google.com/document/d/1u_i-jq_PB0vRnp2V_iroNjel_vOCTjqkitlsehXKQWM/edit?usp=sharing ⌛ TIMESTAMPS 00:00 Intro 01:35 What causes an A2 injury? 03:22 A hypothesis about pulley injury risk (and warning) 04:59 Why does crimping cause A2 injuries? 10:02 Assessing symptoms and severity (grade of injury) 14:51 What is a flap tear? 15:35 Differentiating from other injuries 17:25 Prognosis 18:20 How to recover 19:06 Deload and break from climbing 20:09 Splinting and taping 22:04 Manual therapy 22:43 Range of motion 24:02 Off-wall tissue loading exercises 24:31 Sub-maximal holds 23:35 Mobile board rows 27:10 Recruitment pulls (overcoming isometrics0 28:09 Block pulls 29:12 Rapid mobile board rows 30:33 Additional treatment considerations 31:39 How to avoid pulley injuries 32:52 Outro ⚠️ DISCLAIMER Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately. #trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy